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Considered
by many to be the premier bouldering
area of So Cal. Black Mountain offers
around 700 to 900 problems on white-peppery
alpine granite. House sized boulders
litter this high country forest perched
on the West flank of Mount San Jacinto,
7000ft. above sea level. John Long was
the first to explore the area back in
the 70’s, developing bold problems
such as Where Boneheads Dare, Moroccan
Roll, and the Largo Stem. Black Mountain
stayed pretty low on the radar until
the mid 90’s when Ben Moon came
along and established Bang On.
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Shortly thereafter, superstar Fred Nicole
showed up for the second ascent, and
from that point, popularity in the area
skyrocketed. Black Mountain has several
distinct areas of interest to boulderers.
The first area encountered on the drive
up the dirt road is the O.K. Corral.
This area is the easiest to access as
the boulders practically spill out onto
the road. The O.K. Corral, however,
can become quite crowded during the
peak of the season, especially in the
late afternoon as climbers return for
the day, stopping in to socialize. Highlights
in this area include: O.K. Arete, Gimme
Some, Darkhorse, and Morphic Resonance.
The next stop on Tour De Black Mountain
is Boulder Basin Campground. Boulder
Basin is pretty much the core of Black
Mountain, with most of the classics
residing here. Meenie Greenie, Where
Boneheads Dare, Smackdown, Pink Crack,
and Boulder Basin Dyno, all scattered
about the campgrounds. The Summit area,
located just up the road from Boulder
Basin, also has many fine problems including
the famous Bang On. Other popular climbs
are The Visor problems and Crackerboy.
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The remaining areas of the Black are found
in or near the group campground, which happens
to be the campground of choice for most boulderers
looking to party the night away. The final
area of Black Mountain is the YMCA campground.
This somewhat eerie abandoned lodge and group
of cabins is the gruesome site of a mass murder
back in ‘68! ...just kidding! The bouldering
here may be somewhat limited, but the horror
movie ambiance is definitely worth the trip.
One area of interest along the way to the
YMCA camp is the circuit called the “Chappy
Boulders”. This semi-secret circuit
has many fine problems, and Socalbouldering.com
is dedicated to unearthing info on this area
in the future.
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Weather
Black Mountain is generally a summer destination,
although temps. can get a bit toasty. The
main reason for it’s summer status
is the fact that access is restricted to
the summer months. The road is closed
most of the rest of the year due to snow
and hazardous conditions. Visitors to the
mountain should beware of late summer thunderstorms
that roll in quickly and pelt the landscape
with lightning and torrents of rain. It
should be noted that it is still possible
to climb here in the off-season months,
however it requires parking at the blocked
road and walking in, which is about 5mi!
Uphill!! In the snow!!!
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Directions:
If traveling from Interstate 10,
exit Hwy. 243 headed South towards
Idyllwild. The turnoff for Black
Mountain is roughly 15mi. outside
of Banning, and about 8mi. from
Idyllwild. Look for a large dirt
turnout area on the “upside”
of the mountain. There should be
signs marking the turnout as Black
Mountain Trail. Take the rutted
out dirt road up the mountain,
traveling about 8mi. to O.K. Corral,
and about 10mi. to Boulder Basin
Campground. Turning right at the
fork just before Boulder Basin leads
to the Group sites. From the group
camp, continue North down the backside
of the mountain to reach the YMCA
camp. Some park at a gate blocking
a right fork in the road, and walk
in. It is also possible to continue
driving down the steepening and rutty
road. Four wheel drive is good for
this section, or at the very least
a mild disreguard for your vehicle!
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Copyright 2008©
SoCalBouldering |
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