Case Study #27

 

 

Subject: Velvet Revolver
Rating: V7 or V8/9(sit)
Quality: 3 stars
Location: Black Mountain
Notes: Short but sweet

Velvet Revolver is a nice little power problem that climbs across a cool black and white streaked piece of rock. Body tension and sloper skillz are essential for success on this testy piece. First climbed from the stand up by Buck Branson in 2004, when he named the route Velvet Revolver. Sam Davis added the sit start. Rumor has it that Tim Clifford may have climbed this problem years before, but...whatever, it seems like everything has had multiple "FA's" these days.

The sit starts at an incut rail about 4ft. up. A cruxy deadpoint leads to the stand up start hold - a flat tramslot. From there, tensiony moves lead to unforgiving slopers as the problem traverses the lip to the right for several feet before topping out.

-RtM

Climber: Bridget Enderle
Photos by R. Miramontes

 


 

 


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