Subject: Suck My Venus
Rating: V8
Quality: 3 stars
Location: Jupiter Boulders
Notes: Come prepared to dodge bullets!

Study: Ahh the Jupes! Nothing gets the juices flowing quite like sprinting for 400 yds. uphill in thick sand, with the rap rap rap of an AK47 nipping at your heels! Dive behind the first large boulder you come to, check everybody in your group for blood, and then prepare to pull down... Cause you've just landed at the Amphitheater! Suck My Venus is the stunner on this boulder, ascending the center of the radically overhanging wall...just where you would hope a problem would be! Put up by Ben Pilanko (not sure if that is the correct spelling?) a few years back, Suck My Venus starts at a blocky hold at the lip of the low roof, then follows a crimp ladder up to slopers near the top. The problem is roughly 15ft tall with a nice flat landing area. This problem also has a potential extended start that moves in from the right, which would add another 3 or 4 moves of hard crimping. Also, a sweet V5 starts in the same spot, but moves left to the closer lip.

Climber: Ian McIntosh
Photos: R. Miramontes