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Subject: Byron's Roof, aka: The Depression,
aka: Mosquito Cove
Rating: V9/10
Quality: 3 stars
Location: Tram
Notes: Whack Moves
Jokingly referred to as Byron's Mosquito Induced
Depression, this problem has as many first ascents
as it does ways to climb it. Possibly, the first known
first ascent came from Wills Young via incut slots on
the left side of the roof. This start seems to have been
abandoned, as most start at the sloping shelf on the right
side of the roof. Who did it first this way?? Byron Shumpert?
Thierry Plaud? Rob Mulligan? I just don't know. The right
start used to go from the back of the cave, but a chunk
of the shelf broke away, leaving the standard "shelf"
start. Several other seemingly key holds have broken over
the times, but the problem just won't seem to go away.
It does have some pretty cool moves though, and it doesn't
let up until your standing on the top.
The accepted standard start is from the sloping shelf
on the right side of the cave, however a cool alternate
(original!) start exists on the left side of the cave,
at incut slots. From the "shelf start", shouldery
moves on large holds lead to a funky lip encounter, situate
your feet, then climb the headwall on small knobby flakes.
Be sure to leave a little gas in the tank for the vertical
part.
-R. Miramontes
Climber: Chris Lindner
Photos: R. Miramontes
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