Subject: Gluttony
Rating: V8
Quality: 4 stars
Location: Tram
Notes: Long, knife edged arete

Gluttony is one of those guillotine-like hanging aretes, just waiting to sever the heads of unsuspecting boulderers! I have heard more than a few people refer to it as the best problem at Tram. It is certainly one of the best! FA'd by Tyler Shields around the turn of the millenia. The climb is long, sequencial, and sustained as far as boulder problems go.

Start squatting at two incut edges on the inside of the hanging arete. Climb out the blade of rock on positive flakes and edges to a long fin. Work the fin, crimp through the crux, then head up on slopers to a finger bucket on the left. The problem finishes with a moderate mantel about 13ft. high.

-R. Miramontes

Climber: Christina Pilo
Photos: R. Miramontes

 

 

 

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