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Subject: Suck My Venus
Rating: V8
Quality: 3 stars
Location: Jupiter Boulders
Notes: Come prepared to dodge bullets!
Study: Ahh the Jupes! Nothing gets the
juices flowing quite like sprinting for 400 yds. uphill
in thick sand, with the rap rap rap of an AK47
nipping at your heels! Dive behind the first large boulder
you come to, check everybody in your group for blood,
and then prepare to pull down... Cause you've just landed
at the Amphitheater! Suck My Venus is the stunner on this
boulder, ascending the center of the radically overhanging
wall...just where you would hope a problem would be! Put
up by Ben Pilanko (not sure if that is the correct spelling?)
a few years back, Suck My Venus starts at a blocky hold
at the lip of the low roof, then follows a crimp ladder
up to slopers near the top. The problem is roughly 15ft
tall with a nice flat landing area. This problem also
has a potential extended start that moves in from the
right, which would add another 3 or 4 moves of hard crimping.
Also, a sweet V5 starts in the same spot, but moves left
to the closer lip.
Climber: Ian McIntosh
Photos: R. Miramontes
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