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Subject: Solitude
Rating: V7 or V10(sit)
Quality: 4 stars
Location: Tram
Notes: King of the guillotine aretes
Solitude is a visually stunning guillotine arete that
climbs the hanging edge of a giant shard of rock. The
climb was originally linked as a sit start, but is also
an excellent problem from the stand. Joe Morgan did the
FA of this bad boy. At some later date something crumbled
at the sit start, Joe quickly resent the sit start, stating
that it was still around the same difficulty.
Small indescriminate slopers and micro-crimps mark the
sit start of this climb. Pull on and wrestle the arete
using small slopers and micro edges. Follow the long overhanging
arete to a set of better holds in the middle of the climb.
These holds, about 7 ft. high, mark the stand start. Continue
up the overhanging arete on excellent moves to knobs about
3ft. from the top. Either pull onto the slab on the right
to top out, or continue to wrap around the arete until
the arete itself becomes juggy. The problem is about 14ft.
tall with a slightly menacing shelf of rock below the
top out.
-R. Miramontes
Climber: RtM at the upper crux
Photos: C. Anastasi
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