11-16-07

11-06-07

10-29-07

10-23-07

10-20-07

Lisa Rands, feeling a bit under the weather, casually toured some of Trams standard testpieces. First on the list, Angus (V9), which she made easy work of. Next, she headed up to Gluttony (V8), where she came just short of flashing the thing, sending it on her second go. She finished off the day by hiking Vanishing Point (V9).

At the Brickyard, Dan Kovner has done a link up into the classic Smooth Criminal, which he called Dan's Penis. Our source says that it could be in the V11 range.

Dimitrius Fritz has repeated what may be the second ascent of Eddie's Traverse on the B2 boulder at Stoney. Dimit says it could be V10. In other Stoney Point news, Laura Griffiths traverse problem that she ascented a few months back, (she) called it White Angel or Fallen Angel (V11), may actually be an old Paul Anderson problem (Pile-Ups Traverse V9/10).

The San Jacinto forest is once again locked down for the danger of fires, effectively closing both Tram and Black Mountain. The high state of fire danger throughout all of SoCal may have many other bouldering areas closed as well.

Dan Beall has been tearing it up at Tram lately, sending many of the regular testpieces such as Angus(V9), Clawing at the Belly of the Beast(V10/11?), Soul Shine (V10/11), and flashing Soul Caliber (V9). Dan says that he would like to step it up a notch, and has already started to work on Black Mamba and Somewhere in Time!

9-14-07

9-10-07

The bouldering at Black Mountain is safe, after the fire that burned near there recently, destroying the abandoned YMCA camp. The fire seems to have been contained about a hundred yards past the abandoned camp. So, the Chappy's and other surrounding bouldering areas were unaffected. The boulders at the YMCA camp also seem to be mostly unaffected. A few boulders did get scorched though, and any problems that may have been on those ones definitely did not make it.

The Tramway will be closed starting today for it's yearly maintenance. The proposed closure will be from September 10th to September 22nd. The reopening date has been known to change in the past, so stay tuned for any changes. The forest, however, remains open for anyone hardcore enough to hike the some 10 miles from Idyllwild!

8-30-07

8-24-07

8-22-07

Pine mountain is currently closed due to the massive Zaca fire. For those of you who have not been watching it on the news, the Zaca fire is the second largest fire in California's history, and has burned nearly 300,000 acres. The fire was last reported to be at the base of the Pine Mountain Road, where it intersects the 33. That would put the fire roughly 5 miles from the bouldering! The fire also recently came within 20 miles of the brickyard, but firefighters were able to push it back. This info comes courtesy of Paul Dusatko.

Both Black Mountain and Tram are currently closed because of the fire on Jacinto! The ranger station at Tram informs me that the bouldering areas at Tram will be open for this coming weekend. Black Mountain, however, will remain closed down. Firefighters are using Boulder Basin Campground as a base for the containment operation. The ranger station also confirmed that part of the YMCA camp has in fact burned down. Fire officials hope to have the blaze contained by early next week. We would recommend calling before going out there to boulder anytime soon.

Local news reports that the abandoned YMCA camp at Black Mountain has burned down! This is potentially devestating bouldering news because some of the best bouldering at Black Mountain is located at or near the camp, including the circuit known as the "Chappies". The news also reports that the fire is heading uphill, which would put the group camground and Boulder Basin campgrounds directly in its path. Fire, depending on how hot it gets, has the potential to ruin boulder problems, causing holds to just flake off. We will have a full report on the damage as soon as the area becomes accessible.

8-21-07

8-20-07

8-12-07

7-31-07

It's about 4 pm on Tuesday afternoon, I'm looking at Mount San Jacinto, and there appears to be a large fire on the West flank of the mountain. It looks to be in the area of Black Mountain's YMCA camp. Local news reports that the fire is located above snow creek, which would put it at or very close to the abandoned YMCA camp. We hope for the best, as last year at this time, five local firefighters lost their lives battling a fire in that very same vicinity.

We made a little piece on Michael's memorial incase you could'nt make it out.

Its been a couple of weeks, but Dan Mills put a hairy highball in the Dancefloor (swingdance) area of Tram. It climbs this elongated strip of typical Tram wonderstone, with the crux coming about 3/4 the way up the 22ft. tall face. Dan aptly named the problem the Razors Edge, because of a dicey shard of rock that juts out near and below the V9 crux.

A celebration of Michael Reardon's life will take place on Saturday, August 18th at Malibu Creek State Park. The celebration will start at 9am, and will be open to the public. The entry fee will be waived for those wishing to attend. People are being encouraged to dress casually and to bring their climbing gear. (Click here for more info & directions.)

7-28-07

The problem Adamantium at Black Mountain was subject to a Triple-send Sunday evening, made impressive by the fact that a crucial hold at the crux recently broke, leaving a scant remnant of its former self. Garrett Gregor, Daniel Woods, and Laura Griffiths, all sent the problem first from the original stand, then proceeded to hike the problem from the lower start. Garrett and Daniel both suggested a V11 rating. The problem climbs a beautiful 16ft. tall overhang, starting with thin edges that lead to larger and larger plates to the top. Also, earlier that evening, Daniel made easy work of Black's crown trophy Bang-On, after having worked it bit several days prior.

7-24-07

7-20-07

7-16-07

7-15-07

6-14-07

Tram remains in the spotlight as many local and non-local hotshots begin to realize the potential of the area. Daniel Woods flashed several problems, including - Year of the Cat, and Left Hand of Darkness (both V10), as well as making easy work of Soul Shine(V10/11). Paul Robinson flashed the third ascent of Clawing at the Belly of the Beast ( jury is still out on the difficulty of this problem, but it's somewhere between V8 and V12, heh!). Paul also did Soul Shine in a couple of tries.

Laura Griffiths has also been tearing it up at Tram, repeating problems such as Soul Caliber(V9/10), Gluttony(V8), Angry Beaver(V8), and Heel-A-Peel(V9). Also, representing the gurls, Christina Anastasi put up a brilliant problem that she called Liquid Amber (see photo). This problem ascends a slightly overhanging, golden brown wall of patina. Incut diagonal slashes rip out in all directions, with the line following the right most line of slashes. Christina suggests that this problem could be in the V7 range.

Still no signs of long time SoCal local Michael Reardon, who went missing off the coast of Ireland one week ago today. Mike was soloing cliffs near the town of Valentia, Ireland, when he was struck by a wave while standing near the water's edge. He was swept away by a strong current. On Tuesday, around 150 of Mike's family, friends and admirers gathered at the site where he was last seen to remember him and to speak of him. The outpouring of the climbing community, and not just the SoCal community, has been tremendous, as many still refuse to give up hope. I don't think Mike really knew just how many people he truly did inspire...

Daniel Woods has repeated Matt Birch's "Somewhere in Time". Daniel made easy work of the Tram testpiece, sending it on his second day of effort. So, how hard did Daniel think it was? We don't know, we forgot to ask. But he did rave about the quality of the problem. Will Daniel attemp to extend the problem, that is the real question? Stay tuned for updates. Daniel also made a repeat of another Tram testpiece, "Black Mamba". Dan Mills put up the problem several years ago and graded it V12, however, after several repeats, and a near repeat by Paul Robinson, the problem may be upgraded to V13. In other Tram news, Garrett Gregor hiked the seldom climbed "Black Flame" (V11). SoCalBouldering.com hopes to have sequencial photos of these sends and others just as soon as we can figure out this internet thing.

SoCalBouldering.com is very sad to report that famous freesoloist and SoCal local Michael Reardon, on a month-long climbing trip in Ireland, was struck by a wave late Friday afternoon while standing on the edge of a sea cliff, and was swept out to sea. Reports indicate that Mike had just finished soloing a sea cliff, and was standing near the waters edge when a large wave struck him and knocked him into the water. Michael was last seen waving and yelling as the current pulled him away from the shore. As of Sunday, rescuers have yet to find Mike. Socalbouldering.com, being a long time friend of Michael’s, hopes and prays that he survives this tragic event.

It's been a few weeks, but it's still the biggest news in SoCal bouldering. Matt Birch sent what could be the hardest problem in SoCal! The line, which was a long standing project at Tram, finally went down last month. Matt dispatched with the problem somewhat casually after 6 days of work, and suggested a rating of V13/14, or 8b+, in his words. Named "Somewhere in Time", this stunning line follows a thin seam on a 45° wall. Grim feet and shouldery moves lead to a perfect tramslot, followed by a big move to the lip, and then finishing a tad OTD on tricky slopers. Matt described the climbing as "physical", and said that it felt more powerful, albeit shorter, than his Bishop testpiece called "The Swarm", which seems to be holding at V14.

The problem has a possible lower start that could double the length of the climb, and if sent, could become the hardest problem in the country. Matt vows to return in the fall and would like to attempt the lower start, as well as pluck several other futuristic gems that seem to be laying all over the place at Tram!

4-10-07

Recapping the Events at Jtree in ‘06, whew!, I could write volumes, but I’ll try to make it
short and sweet! Obviously,the biggest news is the problem Chris Sharma put up on the block of rock that recently fell from the cliff near Gunsmoke. The problem, called Iron Resolution,
is reportedly mega-classic...and mega-hard. Information is a little vague on how difficult the problem is, but rumors are leaning towards the V13 range. That would make it the hardest problem in So Cal! Chris Lindner also added a Mega-Classic line of his own at the
Underground. The problem was tried often back in the early days of The Underground, but to no avail. Lindner dispatched it on his second day of working it. The problem, called
Roasted & Raw , climbs out from the back of an 8 ft. cave on porcelain smooth slopers,
to a scant, hanging jug, before finishing up a 14 ft. tall, rusty patina wall. Sick!

Shortly after, Ethan Pringle made quick work
of the second ascent, confirming the grade
of V12 that Chris gave it. Ethan, on a rampage in JTree, also made the second ascent of Iron Resolution, repeating it several times. He then put up an ultra scary highball out on Geology Tour Road. Called the Peanut, this borderline solo climbs 30 ft. up a boulder that looks like slashface turned on its side. The V7 crux coming about 2/3 the way up the thing.